The south-west is the developed side — Bentota for watersports and river safaris, Hikkaduwa for reefs, Unawatuna for a sheltered curve of sand within reach of Galle, Mirissa for whale watching and the best small-hotel scene on the coast, Tangalle for space and quiet. It is an easy stretch to combine with the Cultural Triangle and the hill country, since the drive down from the interior is manageable in an afternoon.
The east is quieter, wider and newer to tourism. Pasikuda has shallow, still water that stays waist-deep a long way out, which makes it unusually good with small children. Trincomalee has better snorkelling and a genuinely interesting town. Arugam Bay, further south, is the surf capital of the island and has a season all of its own.
Most guests split a trip rather than sit still for two weeks — a few days inland for wildlife and heritage, then the coast. All of the itineraries below can be re-routed to whichever coast suits your travel dates.